Luminous, flawless, baby soft: These are common reactions to the results of a great chemical skin peel. No longer a potentially dangerous and painful procedure, chemical peels now require little time in a med spa or dermatology office, and recovery takes only a few days with minimal discomfort. With most peels, patients can return to work and even apply makeup on the same day. While a little burning sensation and peeling skin are normal, the result is radiant skin that is even-toned and stunningly supple.
But not everyone has been able to enjoy the benefits of a proper chemical peel, especially people of color. Anyone who has followed skincare trends has heard or read the stories of someone with melanin-rich coloring walking out of a clinic or salon with irreparable burns, blotches, and hyperpigmentation. These experiences left many consumers with a lifetime of physical and emotional scars. While there are still poorly trained providers, times have changed, and those with brown and black skin can now safely receive a chemical peel minus the potentially nefarious side effects.
At the forefront of the Brown Skin Agenda is Vitality Institute, makers of the prestigious VI Peel. Founded in 2005 by Dr. Abdala Khallil, who created the peel to help his daughter fight chronic cystic acne and the scarring that came along with it. Because his daughter had a deep ethnic skin tone, he had to create a formula that was equally safe, gentle, and effective. In the ensuing years, VI Peel became an internationally recognized brand that continues to be on the cutting edge of skin science, with a portfolio of solutions that target a variety of skin conditions from acne to age correction.
Once a shy teenager with chronic acne, Marya Khalill-Otto has taken the reins following the passing of her beloved, pioneering father. As CEO of Vitality Institute, Khalill-Otto discusses the organization’s deep commitment to treating melanin-rich skin. The initiative, called the Brown Skin Agenda, focuses on researching and making safe skincare solutions available to consumers of all colors, especially those with darker skin tones. In the in-depth interview, Khalil-Otto discusses how the care of melanin-rich skin has advanced and the formulations that make it possible.
Chemical peels have traditionally been approached with caution for people with darker skin tones because of the potential for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. How have advances in peel technology changed the way these concerns are addressed?
One of the biggest advances has been blended peels, where multiple ingredients work together at lower individual concentrations. That allows us to address several concerns and treat all skin tones without relying on a high concentration of a single acid. More stable formulations and standardized application protocols also help make treatment more consistent.
We’re also looking at the whole treatment system, including preparation, the peel itself, and home care. What patients use before and after their appointment matters, especially when treating pigmentation in melanin-rich skin. These advances help us manage risk more thoughtfully, while provider experience and an individualized treatment plan remain essential.
What have we learned about treating melanin-rich skin over the past several years, and how has that knowledge influenced the development of newer chemical peels?
We still have so much to learn, as melanin skin is understudied and overlooked in dermatology. What we’ve learned is that with melanin-rich skin, managing inflammation is just as important as treating the pigmentation itself. If a treatment creates too much irritation, you can end up with more of the discoloration you’re trying to address. More aggressive doesn’t always mean better results.
We’re thinking beyond what happens during the appointment to how the skin is prepared, how it heals, and how results are maintained. And melanin-rich skin isn’t one skin type. Someone’s sensitivity, history of pigmentation, and previous treatment responses should all help guide the plan.
How does the VI Peel approach the unique needs of darker skin tones, particularly when treating hyperpigmentation, melasma, and uneven skin tone?
The provider selects the formula based on the patient’s skin and the cause of the discoloration. We use formulations that combine exfoliating ingredients with those that help address excess pigment, rather than relying on a high concentration of one acid. The goal is to improve discoloration while being thoughtful about the inflammation that can trigger more pigmentation. We include aftercare and a patient app that helps people follow their instructions and understand what to expect throughout recovery. The formula, the provider’s technique, and what the patient does at home all matter, especially when treating skin prone to hyperpigmentation.
Are there particular ingredients, formulations, or delivery methods that have made chemical peels more predictable and appropriate for a wider range of skin tones?
Yes, blended formulations, more stable ingredients, encapsulation technology, and the use of peptides have expanded how we approach chemical peels. Blends allow us to combine ingredients at lower individual concentrations, while encapsulation can help protect certain ingredients and manage their delivery. The complete formulation matters more than any one ingredient or percentage.
How the peel is applied matters, too. Consistent protocols and choosing the appropriate treatment depth help providers manage the skin’s response. The goal is meaningful improvement without unnecessary inflammation, especially in skin prone to hyperpigmentation.
What should consumers with darker skin tones look for when choosing a chemical peel and a practitioner, and what questions should they ask before undergoing treatment?
Look for a qualified practitioner who regularly treats skin like yours and can explain why a particular peel is right for you. Experience with darker skin tones matters, and you should feel comfortable asking to see before-and-after photos of patients with similar concerns. Pay attention to how thoroughly they assess your skin and history. They should ask about previous reactions, medications, and the products you’re using at home. You deserve a personalized plan, realistic expectations, and clear guidance throughout recovery. The care shouldn’t end when you walk out of the treatment room.